Chameleon Care Information

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Chameleon Care

This information is based on the general care for Panther Chameleons and it should be noted that everyone has there own opinion about certain aspects of chameleon care. This information is based on what has worked for us and others that we have witnessed personally and are only suggestions for the care of Panther chameleons. These methods are not necessarily the only way to provide successful care.

Panther Chameleons can make great pets as long as a little research is done. Many people think that chameleons are hard to care for and are not for the beginner, while in reality as long as a couple basic needs are met they can be relatively hardy and easy to maintain. One thing the should be recognized is that Panther Chameleons are docile and solitary animals that can handle plenty of human interaction but would prefer to be left alone and admired for its beauty. Handling a chameleon that is not in the mood to be handled is more prone to illnesses caused by added stress and should be avoided if any agitation is detected.

Enclosure

Panther Chameleons are in our opinion best kept in a screen enclosure. A common misconception is that glass aquariums make suitable cages since they hold a lot of the moisture in and since chameleons need high humidity, this must be a good thing. Moisture that does not dry out is a breeding ground for bacteria and other various organisms that can lead to illness and infections. Humidity requirements are discussed in the following sections. Many varieties of enclosures are available and many keepers prefer building there own enclosures using various items such as PVC, Wood, Wire mesh, etc. I prefer the aluminum frame enclosure with screen sides. This allows the humidity to spike and then dry out, retarding any bacteria growth as much as possible. The size of the cage needed depends on the size of the chameleon. You might think that a big cage for a young chameleon looks like a huge playground for them to explore but it is also a huge place for food to hide. Smaller chameleons seem to do better in smaller cages due to the fact that a smaller enclosure keeps there food source a little closer to them. As they grow they will need a bigger environment though. A 3 month old Panther chameleon, even though varying in size, should do well in a 24”x 12”x 24”(tall) or a 16”x16”x30”(tall), an adult Male Panther Chameleon should be housed in a cage no smaller than a 2’x2’x4’(tall) while adult females do well in a little smaller enclosure.

Enclosure Furnishing

Panther chameleons require foliage to feel secure and provide a drinking surface. Fake plants are preferred by some but we here at The Chameleon Habitat feel that real plants are far superior and much more natural for the chameleons. They also help maintain humidity levels and look appealing. You should always use nontoxic plants and remember to wash the foliage of your new plant before placing it in the enclosure to remove any known or unknown pesticides that would be harmful to your chameleon. A few plants that are used widely by keepers are the Ficus tree, Schefflera, Hibiscus and Pathos. If you are going to use a different plant make sure you check to make sure it will not be harmful. Although some use substrates,(Soil, Coco Bark, etc.) we feel they should be avoided. We use enclosures with PVC board removable bottoms that are easy to clean and maintain. Paper towels would be the only think recommended if you must use something.

Lighting and Temperature

Panther Chameleons require UVB radiation to maintain health and growth. It seems that there are many lights on the market that claim to provide UVB radiation but are over stated or inaccurately represented. We have not encountered any problems with this here at The Chameleon Habitat but have spoken with many that have. If you have no preference then the Reptisun 5.0 fluorescent bulb seems to be the most widely used and supported bulb in the business and I have personally used this bulb with great success. These bulbs work great for short distances. Your chameleon needs to be able to sit within 12 inches of the bulb surface to receive the appropriate amount radiation. These bulbs should also be replaced every 6 months to ensure proper output. They will also need a basking light for temperature regulation. Incandescent bulbs with different wattages should be used to provide a basking area that can range in the mid to high 90’s. Care should be taken to prevent you chameleon from getting too close to the basking light and risking being burned. The chameleon should also be able to retreat to a lower spot in the enclosure to temperatures that are lower and range from the mid 70’s to low 80’s. This will allow your friend to warm and cool themselves as needed. A temperature drop at night is beneficial and can be achieved usually just from the lights going off but around a 10 degree drop is usually best when possible. This allow the chameleons to slow there metabolism down. No other heating source is needed unless nighttime temperatures are falling below the low 60’s. Usually maintaining temperatures in screen enclosures is relatively easy.

Hydration and Humidity

This is one of the main differences in chameleons compared to some other reptiles. Panther Chameleons usually will not recognize standing water as a source of drinking water. As a result, misting of the enclosure or a drip system is required to provide a clean source of drinking water. Creating a drip cup is as easy as poking a hole in the bottom of a container. We recommend misting with a normal spray bottle. We use RO/DI water here, which is water that is run through a series of filters to remove small impurities. Many people are unaware that you can usually purchase this water for about a dollar a gallon from your local pet or fish store. Tap water conditioners are also available that will help to make you tap water safer for your chameleon. Panther Chameleons thrive in mid to high humidity environments. When misted, the humidity in the enclosure should spike to around 90% but should be allowed to dry out completely before misting again. This is usually not an issue unless stagnant air is present or an unsuitable enclosure is used. Normal ambient humidity levels should range between 50% and 60%. More or less misting can be substituted to help maintain humidity levels as well. If low humidity levels are an issue for extended periods of time a humidifier can be used and are usually pretty inexpensive for a low end model.

Feeding and Nutrition

The diet for your Panther Chameleon should have slight variations for best results. This helps balance nutrition and can prevent them from becoming bored with the same food and slowing there food consumption. Examples of recommended staple feeders are gutloaded crickets, silkworms, and roach nymphs and treats can consist of farm raised flies (not the ones off your trash can), hornworms, mantids and superworms to name a few. Gutloading is a term used to describe feeding your feeder insects with highly nutritious and beneficial food so that this is passed to the chameleon at feeding. Commercial gutloads are available targeting needs for reptiles and are the easiest way to go. Fresh fruits and veggies can be used as well to make your feeders as nutritious as possible. You will also need to dust your feeders with vitamin and mineral supplements on occasion directly before feeding to your chameleon. Panther Chameleons that are not exposed to natural sunlight can not create a vitamin called D3.As a result chameleons that are housed indoors need to be supplemented with this vitamin through “dusting”. We use three different types of supplements here. For our sub-adult to adult chameleons we dust with Herptivite multi-vitamin once a week, Miner-all and a calcium/D3 supplement is used 2-3 times a week. Some variations are expected due to size and maturity of the chameleon.

Illnesses

The best way to help your Panther chameleon avoid problems with illness is observation. Close observation of appearance and behavior can aid in catching problems before they become out of hand. Many problems get worse quickly once visible signs are showing. A healthy Panther chameleon should always be alert and never sleep or hold its eyes closed during daylight hours. This is sometimes a good first sign that something is not right and should be pursued. There eyes should fill there eye sockets and not appear to be “sunken in.” Panther Chameleons should have a firm grip as compared to its size and should not make any bubbling or popping sounds when breathing. These can be signs of infections that should be treated as soon as possible to increase the chances of a successful recovery. If any of these signs or any other observations lead you to believe that there is something wrong then you should seek out a qualified reptile vet for assistance.

Sources

Chameleons in Captivity by Connie Dorval

Care and Breeding of Chameleons by Gary Ferguson

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